Gin: styles, history and what to mix
What makes gin gin, the difference between London dry, Old Tom and Plymouth styles, and which bottle suits which drink.
Gin is a neutral spirit flavoured with botanicals, and juniper has to lead. Under EU rules it must be at least 37.5% alcohol and taste predominantly of juniper; in the United States the minimum is 40%. Beyond juniper, almost every gin uses coriander seed and angelica root, then adds its own mix of citrus peels, orris, cassia, liquorice or more unusual plants.
The styles you meet in recipes
- London dry
- A method, not a place. All flavour comes from botanicals distilled with the spirit; nothing but water and a trace of sugar may be added afterwards. Dry, juniper-led and the default for nearly every modern recipe on this site.
- Old Tom
- The softer, slightly sweetened style common in the 18th and 19th centuries, before London dry took over. Old recipes such as the Martinez and the original Tom Collins were built for it, and it is worth trying in them.
- Plymouth-style
- Earthier and a little softer than London dry, with less sharp juniper. The Pegu Club and many old naval recipes call for it by name.
- Genever
- The Dutch and Belgian ancestor of gin: a malt-wine spirit with a bready, whisky-like body. Mixed like whiskey rather than like gin.
- Navy strength
- Gin bottled at about 57%. Stronger flavour that stands up to citrus and sugar; use a little less.
A short history
Juniper-flavoured spirits were made in the Low Countries by the 1500s and reached England as genever. Cheap, unregulated gin flooded London in the first half of the 18th century, the "Gin Craze" that Parliament spent decades trying to curb with a series of Gin Acts, most effectively the one of 1751. Better stills and licensing in the 19th century produced the cleaner, drier gins that made the Martini, the Gimlet and the gin and tonic possible.
Choosing a gin for a drink
- Martini, Gibson, Vesper: a classic London dry of 43–47% holds up to dilution and vermouth.
- Sours and fizzes: almost any good dry gin; citrus-forward gins brighten them.
- Negroni: a bold, juniper-heavy gin, or the drink tastes only of bitter aperitivo.
- Old recipes before about 1900: try Old Tom.